Thursday, April 29, 2010

Temecula: A Phoenix Rises from the Ashes


Nestled 40 minutes north of San Diego, the Temecula Valley is Southern California’s up and coming wine region. Rolling hills and high mountains surround the remarkably beautiful wine region. The climate is idyllic for growing grapes; warm daytime temperatures coupled with cool afternoon and evening breezes.

This valley is not new to grapes. They have been grown in this valley since 1769 by the padres of the Mission San Diego de Alcala. The land lay dormant for many years as prohibition took its toll on many vineyards. Exceptions were made for a very few wineries who grew grapes for sacramental wine. In the late 1960’s grape growing and wine making began a revival with Brookside Vineyard Company at the forefront.

The turn of this century was a nervous time for many people; some were worried about the Y2K bug but Temecula grape growers worried about another kind of bug: the eponymously named glassy-winged sharpshooter. This bug, about half an inch in length is dark brown with piercing, sucking mouthparts and rows of fine spines on its hind legs. And its wings are in fact glassy. It had the potential to destroy entire vineyards.

As mosquitoes transmit malaria, the glassy-winged sharpshooter is a carrier of Pierce’s Disease. This disease has been around for over a century, spanning from east coast to west coast. The pest has preyed upon citrus and grapes alike.

Livelihoods could be lost. Vineyards could be lost. Entire generations of winemaking could go down the drain. Think the great Irish potato blight and set it in the southern California wine country, moving north possibly to the jewels in the crown of the California wine industry: Napa, Sonoma, the Sierra Foothills, Lodi and beyond. This had the potential to be very, very bad.
When it was all said and done, the epidemic had destroyed approximately 50% of the acres of vines growing in the valley. Peter Poole, former owner of Mount Palomar Winery, reported loss of his original vineyard acreage, mimicked that percentage, as did Joe Hart, from Hart Family Winery. No one in Temecula’s wine industry walked away without feeling its effects.
Vineyards cannot be replaced over night. They require 5-7 years to become fruitful. The loss of the older vines was especially devastating. Grapes of older vines are deemed to have greater character resulting in better wines.

From the ashes however, Temecula rose like a Phoenix. It has become a true wine destination with over 25 wineries. Some offer gourmet restaurants serving haute cuisine. Some have luxury villas. Others have spas. Some simply have a rustic picnic table in the front grass.

“I have found one of my favorite wineries of all of California,” says Hally George, 22, a wine sommelier student from San Diego. “Steve Chapin of Chapin Family Vineyards makes wines that embody complexity and dimension. His wines have a characteristic elegance that is surprising to discover.”

Chapin Family Vineyards is in the process of building a tasting facility situated at the eastern end of Rancho California Road that will be open to the public. Currently Steve offers winetasting by appointment only.

South Coast Winery, the largest property in the valley, received the “Best Winery of California” award for the past two years. At this lovely property you may relax in luxury in a vineyard view villa, enjoy a gourmet meal in the Vineyard Rose Restaurant, enjoy a massage in the Grapeseed Spa, or browse in their gift shop. If you have a group event, consider hosting it at this winery, as they have seven different venues for indoor events. Their sprawling lawns make a beautiful setting for a wedding.

Another bright spot in the valley is Thornton Winery which is one of the first wineries to rise up to greet you as you enter the valley. The French-style chateau sits on a hillside and is the site of the very popular summer evening jazz concerts. Enjoying nationally renowned artists performing under the stars, while sipping a bottle of house red wine makes for a magical evening.Thornton boasts award-winning wines, the CafĂ© Champagne, a gift shop, Champagne Lounge and beautiful grounds where the chef grows his herbs for tonight’s dinner.

Also notable is Keyways Winery, the only woman owned winery in the valley. Terri Pebley is the first woman to own and manage a winery in Temecula. She has decorated her tasting room to appeal to women; very homey. Relax and taste wines at high tables and chairs or sit in front of the large fireplace with cozy chairs all designed to make you enjoy your experience. She has replaced the zinfandel vines with Viognier, Roussane, Tempranillo and Grenache to attract the changing palates of wine enthusiasts.

If you go, a special treat can be found at Maurice Carre winery. Before you taste your wine order fresh baked sour dough bread stuffed with Brie cheese. Enjoy it in the afternoon sun with one of your recent wine purchases.

Temecula has grown despite the odds. Limousines are rolling through the valley disgorging various groups of winetasters, new wineries are being built. Bed and Breakfasts are cropping up. Bikers ride through the valley, stopping to try a Chardonnay made in stainless steel tanks, or a zinfandel from the hill across the street, as they meander country lanes. The good times are back, at least for now.

Every grape grower in Temecula was affected by the disease. Although no wineries failed due to the disease, each suffered financial stress. Many acres have not been replanted. The state of California has spent, and continues to spend, upwards of $50 million in research to eradicate this disease. Congress has also stepped in to assist help growers with their losses, allocating $4.5 million to offset the losses.

Joe Hart of Hart Family Winery believes that some growers are not being realistic and not protecting themselves. “Their vines are no more sharpshooter resistant now than they were before the Pierce’s Disease episode.”

Poole said that scientists have developed insecticides which both repel and kill the glassy-winged sharpshooters. He warns that “some growers are falsely confident and do no treat their vineyards.”

In spite of this warning Marc Simpson, 52, of San Diego says, “Wines, vineyards and everything to do with them are always in a state of flux. That’s part of the magic.”

This year’s crop will be different than last years. A new scourge is probably

Monday, April 26, 2010

Boquete Panama- a Veritable Shangri-la


The guidebook said we absolutely must see this lovely town in the highlands, where it is spring year round.
So, after a three-day stint in Bocas del Toro, we water taxied back to our car and headed out on the 30-mile/2-hour drive.
Caution: Be very aware of potholes in Panama. Being that the entire country is a rainforest, the roads are constantly in need of repair.The local joke is to go around a pothole if you see the roof of the car in front of you peekin gout from the top of the hole.
Driving in Panama is a luxury. The country has built roads with the canal funds, but many people do not have cars, thus the roads are wide open.
So, we arrive in Boquete and this really is a veritable Shangri-la. Lush with tropical vegetation; huge Begonias, street lined with Angel Trumpet trees- to the 100's, in all colors, and Haliconias, just to name a few. But, because the town is at the base of a volcano, the decomposed lava is rich with nutrients and the plants love it and grow large and strong.
Boquete (pronounced bo-ket-ee) is a coffee growing region, thus we visited a coffee plantation - Finca Lerida. Here Marc coffee tasted with the owner and the coffee roaster. They were trying to find the right combination of beans for the newly roasted espresso. It was bitter to me. The Panamanian coffee roaster told us that it takes the beans five days from roasting to be ready to be ground and drunk. We were tasting coffee that was less than 10 hours old.
Marc returned to the finca (farm) the next day and hiked with a guide into the rainforest in search of the resplendent Quetzal. Fortunately for him, he saw two quetzals flying around, wagging their long tails. I was sick in bed, so have yet to see a quetzal. Strike two; the first being in Costa Rica 5 years ago. Next time, I promised myself, next time.






Robin Dohrn-SimpsonFreelance Writerwww.robindohrnsimpson.com

Panama City= Manhattan


"Wow, it's the Manhattan of Central America," my husband Marc said as we circled around Panama City preparing to land.

The city has no less than 50 skyscrapers, with about 10-15 of them still having cranes on top of them, all in various stages of construction. Even Donald Trump is getting in on the action. He has two building currently being built and he has an island in the main bay of the city where he's going to build a third skyscraper.

One of the Donald's buildings is a twisting building. The lower foundation of maybe five floors is standard and the next 10ish floors are twisted like a DNA helix.

As we drove around the city at night we noticed that only about 25% of the high rises had lights on signifying occupancy. We asked our taxi driver, "Where are the people who are going to live here? Where are they going to come from?" He shrugged his shoulders and said he did not know.

The country is growing and prospering, thanks to the funds from the Panama Canal operations being shared with the people. But, there's no one to buy the homes being built. Retirees? Expatriats? It will be interesting to watch and see what happens.

A highlight of Panama City is to go out to the Canal and watch ships transit. There is a beautiful 4-story viewing area complete with an open air restaurant to nosh while you watch. Seeing a huge cargo ship transit the canal with 6 or so inches on either side of the ship and the canal is an awesome experience.

Here is a time-lapse video of transiting the canal. It is so cool! Notice the silver carlike vehicles to the side of the ship. These cars hook to the ship and guide it through the canals. Surprisingly the filling and unfilling of the water in each lock is fast.


































Robin Dohrn-SimpsonFreelance Writerwww.robindohrnsimpson.com